top of page

33•4• Palier N°4 •Hermès Enigmatic objects . events . rare objects

My mysterious collection of Hermès objects

Minaudière-Rallye-Malleret Plateau-argent-PrixLGH-1994 Porte-cigarettes Etui-à-cigarettes Porte-allumettes Porte-Coran-Moyen-Orient Canne-siège Etriers Porte-photo Flacon-pendentif Etui-Rochas Porte-pipe-Poulie Boite-Guess Table-yacht-service-inversable Pot-à-tabac-Weintraub Ceinture-Créneau Bracelet-1929 Bracelet-arlequin Coffret-à-cigarettes-de-table-carte-à-jouer Minaudière-pendentif-galuchat Ceinture-ombres-chinoises Bob-ombres-chinoises Ceinture -Cadrans-anciens

Orfèvrerie Vénerie Hermès Poudrier Bijoux Rouge-à-lèvres Minaudière Xavier-de-Poret Chasse Blason ElegancePré


Pré


Fourre-tout chic ! Objets Hermès

"bric-a-brac all Hermès in a flat trunk from the House of Goyard".





"Do not touch" - Oh no thank you


Since I was very young, I have had an attraction for objects. I like to touch them, weigh them, caress them, look at them and finally put them back down. Objects have a specific weight depending on the material they are made of and the simple fact of having them in my hands allows me to determine their composition.


I like them for their originality of form and the ingenuity linked to their use, as well as for the natural materials - or not - in which they are made: precious or non-precious metals, paper, cardboard, wood, leather, ivory, tortoiseshell, glass, Bakelite, fabrics... shaped and worked with love and know-how. Only pewter leaves me unmoved.


For the beauty of the shapes and the association of the colours, with a penchant for Art-deco, the objects enchant me completely, I can't do without them. I enjoy my home with them, a background noise of Melodie Nelson and my entourage that lets me make my choices and my way of being.


Artists and craftsmen, from the goldsmith to the cabinetmaker, have been creating timeless works of art since the dawn of time, present in beautiful homes that have been passed down from one generation to the next or that can be found in museums.


Thank you to them... G. Artémoff, J.E. Rhulman, P. Dupré-Lafon, J.M. Frank, A. Hunebelle, R. Lalique, J. Desprez, Maison Hermès, Maison Goyard, Maison L. Vuitton, Paul Poiret, L. Gaillard... the pleasure of contemplating your works embellishes our lives.


My curiosity leads me to want to know everything about the enigmatic creations of the Maison Hermès. I like to know who the objects belonged to. I am pleased to share with you the results of my research and discoveries.



Hermes Minaudière for the beauty of a horsewoman. Rallye Malleret

Who are you, Madame la Comtesse?


Minaudière Hermès-Paris 1957


What emotion when this object of my collection, out of my memory, resurfaced. Heavy and massive, I had the pleasure of rediscovering it, touching it, admiring it, opening it, and slipping it into its velvet calf case. Determined to find out more, I took a close look at the enigmatic motto engraved on a paving stone, the history of which I found. The other engraving is being researched, it represents a count's crown surmounted by a lion, probably a relative of the Mallerets.


Silver Gold Mirror

Dobblis sheath case signed by Hermès


By reading the two inverted engravings, you can tell which plunger

opens one side or the other.







The silver and gold minaudière in its Hermès case is hinged like a book by two push-pieces hidden on the front edge of the object. Simply press the gold pusher to open one side or the other. One of the push-pieces is engraved with a crown surmounted by a lion and the other with a fleeing hare with the motto "Rallye Malleret" just below.


Rallye Malleret


The Malleret Rally was founded by Paul Clossmann in 1886, who was the aunt of the boatswain.


Paul Clossman, owner of Malleret, hunted hares and deer in the Modoquine moors (Médoc, France) until 1909. After a long interruption, the Malleret Rally reopened in 1956 under the leadership of Bertrand du Vivier who took over the name and the emblematic button of the crew, which had belonged to his uncle.



Button emblem of the crew

of the Malleret Rally



"Dress: blue, doe belly facings, no braid

The button represents a hare fleeing from a banner with the legend "Rallye Malleret".

Boatswain: Marquis du Vivier

Fanfare: La Malleret and the Bois Lurette".

Copyright Bertrand du Vivier




When it comes to hunting, Xavier de Poret, artist-painter, "paparazzi" of animals in nature, is at the edge of the woods, easel and pencils at hand. It is not surprising that his works include drawings of the private hunting society of the Malleret Rally.



The Marquis du Vivier by Xavier de Poret - Crew of Malleret - Societé de Vénerie


 

Dedicated silver tray

mémory


Engraved tray "Prix Lionel Guerrand-Hermès... 1994" Hermès-Paris


Lionel Guerrand-Hermès lost his life in 1981 in a car accident. The young man, son of Patrick Guerrand-Hermès, was then 18 years old.

In his memory, Hermès published the Lionel Guerrand-Hermès Prize. For 1994, a tray engraved with the words "Prix Lionel Guerrand-Hermès Fontainebleau 4 septembre 1994" was offered to the personalities.


Silver plated brass Barenia leather

Engraving

 
X-shaped cigarette case
Canne seat


X-shaped cigarette case

Hermès Paris 24 Fg St Honoré 1924

On a side table by André Hunebelle


Cross grain leather

Metal frame


... The ingenuity of Mr Hermes has succeeded in inventing a model of cigarette case in the shape of an X which allows the closed case to be carried in the pocket and also placed on a piece of furniture where it becomes a trinket presented in an original way....




..... The same ingenuity can be found in a cane for hunters that can be sat on... .... The same ingenuity can be found in a cane for hunters that can be sat on...

Texts from

"La Renaissance de l'Art Français et des Industries du Luxe", 1924




Hermes Paris 1924 cane seat


The curved handle opens like a book, forming an extra seat

Open handle


Pigskin Aluminium Precious wood

 

Stirrup Hermès Frères

Bronze stirrup

Hermès 1920













Signature under the seat
















Test from "La Renaissance de l'Art Français et des Industries du Luxe", 1921










 

Talcum powder case for Marcel Rochas

elegance in the masculine

Talcum powder case holder for Marcel Rochas Hermès-Paris 1949


Special order designed by Hermès for perfumer Marcel Rochas for the launch of Moustache perfume in 1949. Marcel Rochas' refinement and elegance combined with the beauty of his wife, Hélène, were well known. Both were art lovers and possessed treasures of Art Deco. In particular, prestigious pieces of furniture by Eileen Gray.


End with

saddle-stitched finish









Cylindrical box-calf case designed to hold the talcum powder box, topped with the dark red lacquered screw cap


Box-calf

Aluminium for the container


 

Pendant bottle

an approach to perfume


Hermès Paris pendant bottle c.1925

H. 5.5 cm, which inspired the design of "Parfum des Merveilles" in 2005




Detail of the

screwed tester cap

with its twisted

twisted rod








Pendant bottle metal

"Parfum des Merveilles"

H.5 cm, 2005



 

"Pulley" pipe support
Pipe


"pulley" pipe support Hermès-Paris c.1960

Pipe Hermès crocodile skinned 1968


Surprisingly realistic pipe holder to support a lit stove pipe. The ingeniously designed object is absolutely original.


pipe support: Silver

Pipe: Heather wood covered with crocodile



 

Enigmatic box - "Guess"

secret of a box

Box "Guess" (breveté) plein cuir Hermès-Paris 24 Fg St Honoré 1938


When I took possession of this object in 1985, the antique dealer told me it was a paperweight. Given its weight and full leather finish, this was likely. However, I had in mind that this object could conceal a hiding place.


Several years later, as I was handling the object, I pressed the right spot. The decorative plate on the top of the box tilted, and I discovered an open space. It was originally a secret cigarette box, but I found a sweet note in the compartment "to Louise...". Now it's no longer a secret.


I later learned that this box was designed by Paul Dupré-Lafon, information confirmed by the family of the architect-decorator.



Chrome plated brass Box-calf Wood Full leather


Tilting the decorative plate

on top of the box



 

Tilting table for "reversible" port service for yachts

magic trick

Tilting table for "reversible" port service (Patented) 1938




Signature on a plaque

fixed under a table post



The "reversible" service is an invention patented by Hermès in France and abroad. The first services were produced in 1929.


The table with "inversable" service appears in the Hermès catalogue of 1938. The table top swivels on an axis with a side table on one side and an invertible service on the other. The full or empty port glasses follow the movement (Ferris wheel system). The glasses are kept upright by gravity.


Chrome plated brass Walnut wood Glass or crystal


Reversible service side table

 

Tobacco pot dedicated to Jerry Weintraub

Who is Lois, Princess Coconut?


Hermès-Paris tobacco jar Déposé1956

Dedication to the American actor and producer Jerry Weintraub.


To seal, the grip must be turned to compress or expand the clamping rubber.


Full leather Crocodile matt Brass Rubber







Dedication, under the cover

«Exclusively for Jerry Weintraub much love always, Lois (Princess Coconut) »

Hermès-Paris






Side view of the cover







Signature on the bottom






Top view of the lid



Acquisition faite en Californie



Jerry Weintraub



Jerry Weintraub (September 26, 1937 - July 6, 2015) was an American actor, art director and film producer.


Bibliography:

• Suggestions, 1956 N°125

• Carrés d’art II – Illustrated directory & raiting of Hermès scarves,

by G.Fontan isbn 978-2-911955-36-5, Page 152



 
Secret cigarette box

Secret cigarette box Hermès-Paris 1925



Polished brass enamel

Open box

Honeycomb interior











To open the box,

press on the black point of the domino opposite the hinge




Listed in the Hermes 1925 catalogue in the rectangular section version



 

"Créneau" belt

more contemporary than ever


In 1927, the most daring of the Callot sisters, Marie Gerber, was looking for a belt to accessorise her creations. She asked Hermès, which was very advanced in the creation of accessories for elegant dogs, to extend a dog collar with studs and bells to make a belt.


A little later, Hermès was inspired by Marie Gerber's idea and in turn produced belts in the "dog collar" spirit. The model, still in the collection, evolved into bracelets, under evocative names and in many variations.



"Créneau" belt Hermès Paris c.1949

First version of the "Collier de chien" model


Pigskin Blued steel

 

Bracelet "Gourmette" Hermès 1929

Bracelet gourmette Hermès 1929



Long before Chanel, who made this creation famous, which consists of threading a leather link into gilded metal links, Hermès proposed, in its 1929 catalogue, various models of bracelets made according to this ingenious leather/metal combination.


Leather Brass with gold plating

Bracelet gourmette

Porte-folio Hermès 1929




 

Bracelet Arlequin Hermès c.1925

Bracelet Arlequin Hermès Paris 1925


Leather Brass




Clasp


Détail


 

Minaudière 1925

to wear at your fingertips

Monogrammed jewellery clutch

Hermès-Paris 1925



Inside the minaudière







Signature engraved on the

inside edge


Silver gilt Stingray enamel Roses Mirror



 

Cigarette box "Muratti" Hermès-Paris 1929

Cigarette case in silver, covered with cross-grain leather, with an absolutely sober interior in gold. A simple press on the upper front and the cover opens as if by magic. Another adorable jewel that we never tire of handling.


Cigarette box "Muratti" Hermès-Paris 1929


Backround: porte-folio Hermès 1929 où l'on distingue l'étui Muratti


Silver Cross Grain Leather (Vintage Cigarettes)

Dimensions : 9 x8 x 0,5 cm

 
Cigarette box Hermès-Paris 1923

an object to seduce...

Cigarette box Hermès-Paris 1923


In the background: Hermès 1923 folio holder reproducing the case enamelled with black and green stripes on one side. Guilloche surface on the other side, vermeil interior



Silver enamel

Dimensions : 8 x 6,3 x 0,5 cm

 

Matchbox Hermès-Paris 1923

...wax matches


Matchbox Hermès-Paris 1923

Both sides enamelled on silver. In the background: Hermes 1923 portfolio






Silver enamel

Dimensions : 4,7 x 3 x 0,4 cm


Inside the case with its original short wax and sulphide matches



 

Emouvante trouvaille - une ceinture d'une autre mode !

objet de famille

Quand tante Eléonore G. a ouvert son tiroir de la commode à l'entresol, il y avait des vêtements de nuit soigneusement rangés, une boite a attiré mon attention, j'étais sous tension. Nous l'avons ouverte ensemble, et avons découvert une pièce d'exception digne d'un musée de la mode. Cette rareté, signée Hermès, était intacte dans sa boite orange d'origine vieillie par le temps.



Ceinture Hermès-Paris c.1940

à décor brodé d'ombres chinoises


Feutre brodé Ruban gros-grain Cuir d'agneau Laiton chromé


Double boucle


Signature

Etiquette à la calèche cousue