33•4• Palier N°4 •Hermès Enigmatic objects . events . rare objects

My mysterious collection of Hermès objects

Minaudière-Rallye-Malleret Plateau-argent-PrixLGH-1994 Porte-cigarettes Etui-à-cigarettes Porte-allumettes Porte-Coran-Moyen-Orient Canne-siège Etriers Porte-photo Flacon-pendentif Etui-Rochas Porte-pipe-Poulie Boite-Guess Table-yacht-service-inversable Pot-à-tabac-Weintraub Ceinture-Créneau Bracelet-1929 Bracelet-arlequin Coffret-à-cigarettes-de-table-carte-à-jouer Minaudière-pendentif-galuchat Ceinture-ombres-chinoises Bob-ombres-chinoises Ceinture -Cadrans-anciens

Orfèvrerie Vénerie Hermès Poudrier Bijoux Rouge-à-lèvres Minaudière Xavier-de-Poret Chasse Blason ElegancePré

Pré

Fourre-tout chic ! Objets Hermès

"bric-a-brac all Hermès in a flat trunk from the House of Goyard".

"Do not touch" - Oh no thank you

Since I was very young, I have had an attraction for objects. I like to touch them, weigh them, caress them, look at them and finally put them back down. Objects have a specific weight depending on the material they are made of and the simple fact of having them in my hands allows me to determine their composition.

I like them for their originality of form and the ingenuity linked to their use, as well as for the natural materials - or not - in which they are made: precious or non-precious metals, paper, cardboard, wood, leather, ivory, tortoiseshell, glass, Bakelite, fabrics... shaped and worked with love and know-how. Only pewter leaves me unmoved.

For the beauty of the shapes and the association of the colours, with a penchant for Art-deco, the objects enchant me completely, I can't do without them. I enjoy my home with them, a background noise of Melodie Nelson and my entourage that lets me make my choices and my way of being.

Artists and craftsmen, from the goldsmith to the cabinetmaker, have been creating timeless works of art since the dawn of time, present in beautiful homes that have been passed down from one generation to the next or that can be found in museums.

Thank you to them... G. Artémoff, J.E. Rhulman, P. Dupré-Lafon, J.M. Frank, A. Hunebelle, R. Lalique, J. Desprez, Maison Hermès, Maison Goyard, Maison L. Vuitton, Paul Poiret, L. Gaillard... the pleasure of contemplating your works embellishes our lives.

My curiosity leads me to want to know everything about the enigmatic creations of the Maison Hermès. I like to know who the objects belonged to. I am pleased to share with you the results of my research and discoveries.

Who are you, Madame la Comtesse?

Minaudière Hermès-Paris 1957

What emotion when this object of my collection, out of my memory, resurfaced. Heavy and massive, I had the pleasure of rediscovering it, touching it, admiring it, opening it, and slipping it into its velvet calf case. Determined to find out more, I took a close look at the enigmatic motto engraved on a paving stone, the history of which I found. The other engraving is being researched, it represents a count's crown surmounted by a lion, probably a relative of the Mallerets.

Silver Gold Mirror

Dobblis sheath case signed by Hermès

By reading the two inverted engravings, you can tell which plunger

opens one side or the other.

The silver and gold minaudière in its Hermès case is hinged like a book by two push-pieces hidden on the front edge of the object. Simply press the gold pusher to open one side or the other. One of the push-pieces is engraved with a crown surmounted by a lion and the other with a fleeing hare with the motto "Rallye Malleret" just below.

Rallye Malleret

The Malleret Rally was founded by Paul Clossmann in 1886, who was the aunt of the boatswain.

Paul Clossman, owner of Malleret, hunted hares and deer in the Modoquine moors (Médoc, France) until 1909. After a long interruption, the Malleret Rally reopened in 1956 under the leadership of Bertrand du Vivier who took over the name and the emblematic button of the crew, which had belonged to his uncle.

Button emblem of the crew

of the Malleret Rally

"Dress: blue, doe belly facings, no braid

The button represents a hare fleeing from a banner with the legend "Rallye Malleret".

Boatswain: Marquis du Vivier

Fanfare: La Malleret and the Bois Lurette".

Copyright Bertrand du Vivier

When it comes to hunting, Xavier de Poret, artist-painter, "paparazzi" of animals in nature, is at the edge of the woods, easel and pencils at hand. It is not surprising that his works include drawings of the private hunting society of the Malleret Rally.

The Marquis du Vivier by Xavier de Poret - Crew of Malleret - Societé de Vénerie

mémory

Engraved tray "Prix Lionel Guerrand-Hermès... 1994" Hermès-Paris

Lionel Guerrand-Hermès lost his life in 1981 in a car accident. The young man, son of Patrick Guerrand-Hermès, was then 18 years old.

In his memory, Hermès published the Lionel Guerrand-Hermès Prize. For 1994, a tray engraved with the words "Prix Lionel Guerrand-Hermès Fontainebleau 4 septembre 1994" was offered to the personalities.

Silver plated brass Barenia leather

Engraving

X-shaped cigarette case

Hermès Paris 24 Fg St Honoré 1924

On a side table by André Hunebelle

Cross grain leather

Metal frame

... The ingenuity of Mr Hermes has succeeded in inventing a model of cigarette case in the shape of an X which allows the closed case to be carried in the pocket and also placed on a piece of furniture where it becomes a trinket presented in an original way....

Texts from

"La Renaissance de l'Art Français et des Industries du Luxe", 1924

Hermes Paris 1924 cane seat

The curved handle opens like a book, forming an extra seat

Open handle

Pigskin Aluminium Precious wood

Bronze stirrup

Hermès 1920

Signature under the seat

Test from "La Renaissance de l'Art Français et des Industries du Luxe", 1921

elegance in the masculine

Talcum powder case holder for Marcel Rochas Hermès-Paris 1949

Special order designed by Hermès for perfumer Marcel Rochas for the launch of Moustache perfume in 1949. Marcel Rochas' refinement and elegance combined with the beauty of his wife, Hélène, were well known. Both were art lovers and possessed treasures of Art Deco. In particular, prestigious pieces of furniture by Eileen Gray.

End with

saddle-stitched finish

Cylindrical box-calf case designed to hold the talcum powder box, topped with the dark red lacquered screw cap

Box-calf

Aluminium for the container

an approach to perfume

Hermès Paris pendant bottle c.1925

H. 5.5 cm, which inspired the design of "Parfum des Merveilles" in 2005

Detail of the

screwed tester cap

with its twisted

twisted rod

Pendant bottle metal

"Parfum des Merveilles"

H.5 cm, 2005

"pulley" pipe support Hermès-Paris c.1960

Pipe Hermès crocodile skinned 1968

Surprisingly realistic pipe holder to support a lit stove pipe. The ingeniously designed object is absolutely original.

pipe support: Silver

Pipe: Heather wood covered with crocodile

secret of a box

Box "Guess" (breveté) plein cuir Hermès-Paris 24 Fg St Honoré 1938

When I took possession of this object in 1985, the antique dealer told me it was a paperweight. Given its weight and full leather finish, this was likely. However, I had in mind that this object could conceal a hiding place.

Several years later, as I was handling the object, I pressed the right spot. The decorative plate on the top of the box tilted, and I discovered an open space. It was originally a secret cigarette box, but I found a sweet note in the compartment "to Louise...". Now it's no longer a secret.

I later learned that this box was designed by Paul Dupré-Lafon, information confirmed by the family of the architect-decorator.

Chrome plated brass Box-calf Wood Full leather

Tilting the decorative plate

on top of the box

magic trick

Tilting table for "reversible" port service (Patented) 1938

Signature on a plaque

fixed under a table post

The "reversible" service is an invention patented by Hermès in France and abroad. The first services were produced in 1929.

The table with "inversable" service appears in the Hermès catalogue of 1938. The table top swivels on an axis with a side table on one side and an invertible service on the other. The full or empty port glasses follow the movement (Ferris wheel system). The glasses are kept upright by gravity.

Chrome plated brass Walnut wood Glass or crystal

Reversible service side table

Who is Lois, Princess Coconut?

Hermès-Paris tobacco jar Déposé1956

Dedication to the American actor and producer Jerry Weintraub.

To seal, the grip must be turned to compress or expand the clamping rubber.

Full leather Crocodile matt Brass Rubber

Dedication, under the cover

«Exclusively for Jerry Weintraub much love always, Lois (Princess Coconut) »

Hermès-Paris

Side view of the cover

Signature on the bottom

Top view of the lid

Acquisition faite en Californie

Jerry Weintraub

Jerry Weintraub (September 26, 1937 - July 6, 2015) was an American actor, art director and film producer.

Bibliography:

• Suggestions, 1956 N°125

• Carrés d’art II – Illustrated directory & raiting of Hermès scarves,

by G.Fontan isbn 978-2-911955-36-5, Page 152

Secret cigarette box Hermès-Paris 1925

Polished brass enamel

Open box

Honeycomb interior

To open the box,

press on the black point of the domino opposite the hinge

Listed in the Hermes 1925 catalogue in the rectangular section version

more contemporary than ever

In 1927, the most daring of the Callot sisters, Marie Gerber, was looking for a belt to accessorise her creations. She asked Hermès, which was very advanced in the creation of accessories for elegant dogs, to extend a dog collar with studs and bells to make a belt.

A little later, Hermès was inspired by Marie Gerber's idea and in turn produced belts in the "dog collar" spirit. The model, still in the collection, evolved into bracelets, under evocative names and in many variations.

"Créneau" belt Hermès Paris c.1949

First version of the "Collier de chien" model

Pigskin Blued steel

Bracelet gourmette Hermès 1929

Long before Chanel, who made this creation famous, which consists of threading a leather link into gilded metal links, Hermès proposed, in its 1929 catalogue, various models of bracelets made according to this ingenious leather/metal combination.

Leather Brass with gold plating

Bracelet gourmette

Porte-folio Hermès 1929

Bracelet Arlequin Hermès Paris 1925

Leather Brass

Clasp

Détail

to wear at your fingertips

Monogrammed jewellery clutch

Hermès-Paris 1925

Inside the minaudière

Signature engraved on the

inside edge

Silver gilt Stingray enamel Roses Mirror

Cigarette case in silver, covered with cross-grain leather, with an absolutely sober interior in gold. A simple press on the upper front and the cover opens as if by magic. Another adorable jewel that we never tire of handling.

Cigarette box "Muratti" Hermès-Paris 1929

Backround: porte-folio Hermès 1929 où l'on distingue l'étui Muratti

Silver Cross Grain Leather (Vintage Cigarettes)

Dimensions : 9 x8 x 0,5 cm

an object to seduce...

Cigarette box Hermès-Paris 1923

In the background: Hermès 1923 folio holder reproducing the case enamelled with black and green stripes on one side. Guilloche surface on the other side, vermeil interior

Silver enamel

Dimensions : 8 x 6,3 x 0,5 cm

...wax matches

Matchbox Hermès-Paris 1923

Both sides enamelled on silver. In the background: Hermes 1923 portfolio

Silver enamel

Dimensions : 4,7 x 3 x 0,4 cm

Inside the case with its original short wax and sulphide matches

objet de famille

Quand tante Eléonore G. a ouvert son tiroir de la commode à l'entresol, il y avait des vêtements de nuit soigneusement rangés, une boite a attiré mon attention, j'étais sous tension. Nous l'avons ouverte ensemble, et avons découvert une pièce d'exception digne d'un musée de la mode. Cette rareté, signée Hermès, était intacte dans sa boite orange d'origine vieillie par le temps.

Ceinture Hermès-Paris c.1940

à décor brodé d'ombres chinoises

Feutre brodé Ruban gros-grain Cuir d'agneau Laiton chromé

Double boucle

Signature

Etiquette à la calèche cousue

Boucles à ardillons, revers

Bob "Ombres chinoises" c. 1940

Signature Etiquette à la calèche

When I acquired this curious belt made up of early 19th century watch dials, I was astonished. The American woman who gave it to me came to France every year to spend a holiday on the Rivera Cote d'Azur. She had brought back this belt bought at Hermès in those years.

"Cadrans anciens" belt Hermès Paris 24 Fg St Honoré 1948

Scarf "Cadrans anciens"

Hugo Grygkar, 1948

1948 L'Officiel de la mode

the falcon: national bird of Qatar

Koran case Hermès-Paris 1980

Published by Hermès for Thomson-CSF (which became Thalès in 2000) for the launch of the Shaheen system developed in Saudi Arabia. Offered to some prestigious clients in the Middle East.

Top of the cover

On the top of the lid, a circular medallion decorated with a Shaheen falcon in gold relief on a background engraved with the Thomson-CSF logo representing an anti-aircraft tank.The inscription "صقر" means "holy falcon" or "Falco cherrug

Inside the cover

Engraved "1400-SHAHINE - 1980" topped by the emblem of Saudi Arabia

Silver plated brass Gold Wood

Designed by Ravinet d'Enfert for Hermès-Paris

Signed Hermès-Paris on one side

Falcon hunting is a sport practiced by all Qataris. The possession of this bird is a symbol of power and nobility. In the country, it is a real passion. The bird even has its own air-conditioned room. It is treated like a real pet, or even better!

Chaperon(1) of falconry Creation Hermès 2011

Pièce unique réalisée dans les ateliers de sellerie Hermès à l’occasion du défilé de mode 2011 dans l’espace Hermès Sèvres Babylone. Le chaperon est entièrement réalisé à la main en cuir de veau noir et bague paladiée, perlée du H d’ Hermès.

Calf leather Paladised metal

Chaperon - top view

2011 marks the arrival of Christophe Lemaire at Hermès. It was on the occasion of his first fashion show that the Hermès saddlery workshop produced this prototype, which falls into the category of exceptional orders from the workshop/unique piece.

Chaperone on its original oval box

Christophe Lemaire's first fashion show for Hermès, just after Jean-Paul Gaultier's departure, took place in the H Sèvres-Babylone boutique. Initially, the falcons present at the show were supposed to be hooded, but in the end, the show took place bareheaded for the bird of prey in order to avoid additional stress, knowing that it would not have the master falconer at its side.

Parade Hermès Boutique Sèvres Babylone en 2011

(1) A leather headdress used to blind a falcon so that it remains calm and undisturbed by its surroundings. Introduced to the West by Frederic II and described in his famous treatise "De arte venandi cum avibus". Quoted by Marco Polo in 1298.

the favourite pet

Photo frame "Anita" Hermès-Paris 1988

Silver

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